I ended Ramadan as I started it, with staying up to see the dawn. As of sundown last night, the month of fasting is officially over, and three days of partying begin. Yesterday was my first full day back "home" in Cairo, but thankfully I still have 2 weeks until the start of the fall semester. It's strange to feel that being back here is relaxing, because that is not something one often feels in this chaotic and overcrowded place, but it is in a way. I spent the day sleeping, sorting through photos from my trip, and going for a stroll in the nearby Botanical Garden with a few friends. As far as botanical gardens go, it's a sad place: most of the plants are stiff and brown, the grass is overgrown in many places, and the handwritten labels tacked haphazardly to certain trees are faded. The cactus sanctuary, the only place that looked well-maintained, was locked. The place has certainly seen better days and larger crowds -- but it is nevertheless a sleepy oasis of green amidst the gray, congested streets of Dokki.
In the evening, several friends came over for a final iftar, and we ordered cheap Yemeni food from the place around the corner. Once the guests had gone, I passed out on the couch for a few hours. I woke up around 1am to the pop of fireworks somewhere nearby. I left my apartment and found the streets were crowded and noisy -- even small children were running free in the middle of the night. I met my friend Nina in her neighborhood of Mounira, across the river, and together we walked to Sayyeda Zeinab. Of course I had to stop again for the mystery dessert miziz (see my earlier post for details) at Rahmany's before we headed to the mosque. It was about 3:45am and everyone was still going strong. Streams of women poured into the mosque with us (the men's side is separate), and one young woman was engaged in a shoving match with the elderly shoe guardian. Nina and I nestled ourselves in a back corner and listened to the melodic voice of the imam over the loudspeaker chanting verses from the Qur'an. At 3:53, he switched to the azaan, the call to prayer, and all the women stood up in unison. It was the beginning of fagr, the dawn prayer. It lasted maybe 10 minutes before the lines of bowing women dispersed and many gathered in small groups to chat with friends. One lady came around with a box of free dates, offering one to each of us. And so began the festivities of Eid.
In the evening, several friends came over for a final iftar, and we ordered cheap Yemeni food from the place around the corner. Once the guests had gone, I passed out on the couch for a few hours. I woke up around 1am to the pop of fireworks somewhere nearby. I left my apartment and found the streets were crowded and noisy -- even small children were running free in the middle of the night. I met my friend Nina in her neighborhood of Mounira, across the river, and together we walked to Sayyeda Zeinab. Of course I had to stop again for the mystery dessert miziz (see my earlier post for details) at Rahmany's before we headed to the mosque. It was about 3:45am and everyone was still going strong. Streams of women poured into the mosque with us (the men's side is separate), and one young woman was engaged in a shoving match with the elderly shoe guardian. Nina and I nestled ourselves in a back corner and listened to the melodic voice of the imam over the loudspeaker chanting verses from the Qur'an. At 3:53, he switched to the azaan, the call to prayer, and all the women stood up in unison. It was the beginning of fagr, the dawn prayer. It lasted maybe 10 minutes before the lines of bowing women dispersed and many gathered in small groups to chat with friends. One lady came around with a box of free dates, offering one to each of us. And so began the festivities of Eid.
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